Paul Poiret Biography

Name: Paul Poiret [pic] Born April 20, 1879— April 30, 1944 Biography: †¢ Born in Paris to a wealthy family an attended a Catholic lycee. †¢ After school he started an apprenticeship with an umbrella maker, which did not suit him. †¢ In 1896, as a teenager, he began working for Jacques Doucet, a prominent Parisian couturier of the time. †¢ In four years Poiret worked up the ranks to become head of the tailoring department for Jacques Doucet. †¢ Poiret designed for many actresses of the time, while working on the play L'Aiglon, he snuck into a dress rehearsal and his harsh critique of the sets and costumes got him fired from the movie.But, that did not stop actresses from requesting his designs. †¢ Joined the House of Worth in 1901 as an assistant designer, there he deigned clothes in a stark contrast to the opulent garments from Worth; his were more for the everyday woman. While he felt himself that his fellow designers looked down on him for his more simplistic designs, they were commercially very successful. †¢ While at the House of Worth, Poiret designed his first Asian-inspired piece, which was a simple Chinese-style cloak called Confucius.It offended a Russian princess, who though it was too simple, and not grand enough for anybody but peasants to wear. After opening his House of fashion the mandarin-robe-style cloaks were best sellers. †¢ In 1903 he opened his own couture house, in 1909 he relocated to a very large and spectacular location with a parterre garden. †¢ In the October 1908 publication of Les Robes de Paul Poiret, it featured Poiret’s designs using the pochoir method of printing, giving the images brilliantly saturated areas of color. Poiret worked with artist Paul Iribe to achieve this.Who juxtaposed Poiret’s graphically striking clothes to stylishly arranged backgrounds. With this they helped fuse fashion and art even further. †¢ Also, in 1908 Poiret introduced his lean, high-waisted silhouette. Featuring narrow lines, high waists, covered arms, and low decolletes, making the hourglass silhouette passe. †¢ Poiret’s designs removed the corset, which interfered with his narrow lines, and with that many other designers followed and corsets started to become a thing of the past. †¢ The Poiret Rose became a trademark for the designer after a hree-dimensional silk chiffon rose was sewn to the empire bodice of Josephine, one of the 1907 dresses that was featured in Les Robes de Paul Poiret. †¢ While producing his second album of designs, Les Choses de Paul Poiret (1911), Poiret asked artist Georges Lapape for inspiration for a new look. But Mme. Lepape was the one who inspired one of his most iconic designs, the jupe-culotte, with her sketch. †¢ In April of 1911 Poiret opened Martine, named after one of his daughters, which was a school where creativity could flourish and not be stifled by discipline or only being taught one way. Also, in the same year, 1911, the house of Poiret introduced their first fragrance, Rosine, named after another daughter. Poiret was involved in every aspect of the production of the fragrance. He expanded the fragrance to include soaps and lotions, which was then replicated by other designers. †¢ Poiret was a military tailor throughout the war and had to relaunch his business in 1919 after the war was over. †¢ But by 1929 the House was doing poorly and he sold his business, it is due to this that he lost the rights to his name. Poiret passed away on April 28th 1944 from Parkinson’s disease. Signature looks: [pic] [pic] [pic] Significance: Paul Poiret was incredibly significant because he pushed the boundaries on what was then considered fashion. He changed the shape of the femal body with his daring silhouettes. Poiret revolutionized the way fashion photography was done and essentially created editorials. Poiret also is a great example of a â€Å"spirit of the ti mes† with his lavish lifestyle and designs; he very much captured the spirit of the 1910’s and 20’s.Poiret was influenced by many other cultures and would often bring it in to his designs, especially Asian and Persian. The softly ballooning legs, turbans, and tunic effect become Poiret signature looks. Poiret is regarded by many as the first genius of fashion; he himself proclaims that he is the â€Å"King of Fashion† in his autobiography of the same name. He is also the first designer to have come out with a beauty line, which has since set the standard for fashion houses. Signature Looks Today: [pic] [pic] Works Cited †¢ Caroline Milbank, A-Z Fashion, Berg Fashion Library, Berg Publishers, online, 10/21/12.Images Cited †¢ Online Image, Timeless Fashion and Art, 2007, 10/21/12 †¢ Online Image, Sun Sentinel: Fashion and Style, December 15th, 2011. †¢ Online Image, FIDM Museum Blog, FIDM, August 19, 2009 †¢ Online Image, Zappos. com , Zappos, 10/21/12 Online Image, Styleite. com, Styleite Paris Couture Week, July 6th, 2011 ———————– Poiret’s jupe-culotte and tunic, 1913. Poiret’s fragrance, featuring trademark rose. Asian influenced designs, 1913. Modern couture take on Asian-influence fashion. Baggy trouser pants similar to Poiret’s jupe-culotte.